Does a trailer bill of sale need to be notarized?

Most states do not require a trailer bill of sale to be notarized, but a handful do for any vehicle transfer, and some require notarization specifically when you are assigning a VIN to a homemade trailer. Even where it is optional, notarizing the document or signing in front of a witness makes it harder for either party to later claim the signature was forged. Check your state DMV before you finalize the sale.

How do I sell a homemade trailer without a VIN?

Shop-built and homemade trailers usually have no manufacturer VIN, so most states make you get one assigned before the trailer can be titled or registered. That typically means a physical inspection by the DMV or state police, a weight certificate from a certified scale, receipts for the materials, and sometimes photos. The buyer often handles this after the purchase, but the bill of sale should describe the trailer in enough detail, dimensions, axle count, and construction, that the inspector can match it to your document.

What does selling a trailer "as-is" mean?

An as-is sale means the buyer accepts the trailer in its current condition with no warranties. Once the bill of sale is signed, the seller is not responsible for problems the buyer finds later, such as worn bearings, bad brakes, or rusted-through floor boards. As-is language is standard for private trailer sales and should be stated plainly so there is no argument about who carries the risk. It does not, however, protect a seller who lies about a known defect.

Does a trailer need its own registration and plate?

In most states, yes. A trailer is registered separately from the vehicle that tows it and usually carries its own license plate, even though it has no engine. After a private purchase the buyer typically has a set window, often 10 to 30 days, to register the trailer and get a plate in their name. The bill of sale, along with the signed title if one exists, is what they bring to the DMV to do it.

Trailer Bill of Sale Template & Guide

Q: Do I need a title to sell a trailer?

It depends on the trailer and your state. Many states do not title small utility trailers below a weight threshold, often around 1,500 to 3,000 pounds, and only register them or require nothing at all. Heavier trailers, enclosed cargo trailers, and travel trailers usually do get titled, and in those cases you sign the title over to the buyer alongside the bill of sale. When no title exists, the bill of sale becomes your main proof that ownership changed hands, so getting it right matters more, not less.

A step-by-step guide to writing a trailer bill of sale. Covers the VIN, GVWR, homemade trailers, state titling rules, as-is sales, and common mistakes.

Trailers change hands fast and cheaply. Someone lists a utility trailer on Facebook Marketplace, a buyer hitches it up, hands over cash, and drives off. The problem is that a trailer is still a titled or registered asset in most states, and a deal done on a handshake leaves both sides exposed. A trailer bill of sale turns that quick transaction into a written record of who sold what, for how much, and when. It protects the seller from liability after the trailer rolls away, and it gives the buyer the paperwork they need to register the trailer and put a plate on it.

Below is what a trailer bill of sale is, what to put in it, how titling and registration shift from one trailer to the next, how to handle homemade trailers, and the mistakes that make the document useless when you actually need it.

What is a trailer bill of sale?

A trailer bill of sale is a written document that records the transfer of ownership of a trailer from a seller to a buyer. It names both parties, describes the trailer precisely, states the price and date, and gets signed by both sides.

Trailers cover a wide range of equipment: open utility trailers, enclosed cargo trailers, boat trailers, horse and livestock trailers, dump trailers, flatbeds, gooseneck and fifth-wheel trailers, and travel trailers people live in. Titling rules vary across all of them, which is what makes the bill of sale so useful. For a lightweight utility trailer that your state does not title, the bill of sale may be the only ownership document that ever exists. For a heavier or enclosed trailer that does get a title, the bill of sale supports the title transfer and records the financial terms the title leaves out.

For the seller, it pins down the exact moment responsibility passed to the buyer. For the buyer, it is proof of purchase for registration, the plate, and sales tax, and in no-title states it is the foundation of their ownership claim.

When you need one

Create a bill of sale for any private trailer sale. It matters most when:

Your state does not title the trailer. Many states skip titles for utility trailers under a weight cutoff. With no title to lean on, the bill of sale is what proves the transfer.
The trailer is homemade or shop-built. These rarely have a manufacturer VIN, so the buyer will need a state inspection and an assigned VIN. A detailed bill of sale supports that process.
The sale is as-is. A signed as-is bill of sale is the seller's main defense if the buyer later complains about bad bearings, brakes, or a soft floor.
The buyer is paying over time. You will want to document the agreed price and the installment terms in writing.
The trailer is gifted or sold for a token amount. You still want a paper trail for tax and liability reasons.

The same logic applies to almost any private sale of rolling equipment. If you want the broader rules that cover cars, trucks, and towables alike, see our guide on whether you need a bill of sale when selling your vehicle. If you are selling a boat with its trailer as a package, our boat bill of sale guide explains how to handle the boat, the motor, and the trailer together on one document.

What to include in a trailer bill of sale

A bill of sale only works if it is specific. Vague descriptions and missing numbers are what turn a binding document into a piece of paper the DMV clerk waves away. Include all of the following.

Buyer and seller information

Full legal names of both buyer and seller
Current mailing addresses
Phone numbers or email addresses for follow-up paperwork

Trailer description

This is the heart of the document. Pin down the exact trailer so there is no question about what changed hands:

Year, make, and model if the trailer is manufactured (for example, 2020 Big Tex 70PI)
Trailer type (utility, enclosed cargo, boat, horse, dump, flatbed, gooseneck, travel)
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), copied exactly. On most trailers the VIN is stamped on a metal plate riveted to the tongue or the front of the frame. Homemade trailers may have no VIN, note that and describe the trailer in detail instead.
Length and width, plus the deck or box dimensions
Number of axles and whether they are single or tandem
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and empty weight, which determine the registration class in most states
Color and construction (steel, aluminum, wood deck)
Brakes, if equipped (electric or surge), and the type of coupler and hitch
Accessories included, such as a spare tire, ramps, a winch, or tie-downs, so there is no later dispute about what came with it

Sale terms

Purchase price in numerals and written out in words
Date of sale
Form of payment (cash, certified check, electronic transfer, or installment terms)
If installments: the schedule, due dates, and what happens on default

As-is / warranty statement

Almost every private trailer sale is as-is. State plainly that the trailer is sold in its current condition with no warranties and that the buyer has inspected and accepted it. More on this below.

Signatures

Signatures of both buyer and seller
The date each party signed
A notary or witness block if your state requires one or you choose to use one

As-is sales: protecting the seller

In a private sale, the seller rarely wants to be on the hook for problems the buyer finds later. Trailers wear in ways that are easy to miss on a quick look: dry-rotted tires, pitted wheel bearings, frozen brakes, a rusted axle, a floor that looks fine until weight goes on it. The way you avoid that exposure is with clear as-is language.

An as-is clause states that the trailer is sold in its present condition, "with all faults," and that the seller makes no warranties of any kind, not about mechanical condition, road-worthiness, or fitness for any particular hauling job. It should also confirm the buyer had the chance to inspect the trailer, or have it inspected, before paying.

Without that language, a buyer who finds a cracked frame weld or a seized bearing a week later might argue there was an implied warranty. With it, the buyer has acknowledged in writing that they accepted the trailer as-is. As-is selling is legal in most private deals, but it does not shield a seller who actively lies, hiding a known frame crack or misrepresenting a repair that was never done. Honesty plus as-is language is the combination that holds up.

Titling, registration, and plates

This is where trailers get confusing, because the rules change with the trailer's weight and type.

Titling depends on weight and state. Many states do not issue titles for utility trailers below a weight threshold, commonly somewhere between 1,500 and 3,000 pounds GVWR, and instead register them or ask for nothing. Heavier trailers, enclosed cargo trailers, and travel trailers usually do get titled. Some states changed their thresholds in recent years, so an older trailer and a newer one of the same size can have different paperwork. Confirm your state's current rule before the sale, because it dictates what documents you need.

Registration and a plate are usually separate. A trailer is registered apart from the truck that tows it and ordinarily carries its own license plate, even with no engine and no brakes of its own. After a private purchase the buyer typically has a limited window to register the trailer and get a plate in their name.

Travel trailers are a category of their own. A camper or RV trailer is titled and registered much like a vehicle and is worth far more than a utility trailer, so the title transfer matters more. If you are buying or selling one, our camper bill of sale guide walks through the extra details.

The practical takeaway: in a no-title state, treat the bill of sale as the deal's most valuable document, and call your DMV ahead of time to learn exactly what they need to register the trailer in the buyer's name.

Homemade and shop-built trailers

A large share of utility trailers on the used market are homemade, and they need extra steps. Because they have no manufacturer VIN, most states require a state-assigned VIN before the trailer can be titled or registered. Getting one usually involves:

A physical inspection by the DMV, state police, or an authorized agent who verifies the trailer is not stolen and matches your paperwork
A weight certificate from a certified scale, since there is no manufacturer's GVWR to rely on
Receipts for the materials used to build it, which double as proof of ownership
Photos of the trailer and, sometimes, of the build in progress

The buyer often handles the inspection after the sale, but your bill of sale makes their job easier. Describe a homemade trailer in real detail, dimensions, axle count, construction materials, and any visible markings, so the inspector can line the trailer up against the document. Note clearly on the bill of sale that the trailer is homemade and has no VIN.

How to write a trailer bill of sale: step-by-step

Step 1: Gather the paperwork. Have the title (if your state issued one), the current registration, and the trailer itself in front of you so you can copy the VIN, the GVWR, and the dimensions exactly. Errors here cause registration headaches later.

Step 2: Fill in the parties. Write the full legal names and addresses of both buyer and seller, using names exactly as they appear on government ID.

Step 3: Describe the trailer precisely. Record the year, make, model, type, VIN, length, width, axle count, GVWR, brakes, coupler, and any included accessories. Double-check the VIN character by character. A single wrong digit can stop the sale at the registration counter.

Step 4: State the price and payment. Write the purchase price in both numerals and words, the payment method, and the date. If the buyer is paying over time, spell out the installment schedule and default terms, much as you would in a simple loan agreement.

Step 5: Add the as-is clause. State clearly that the trailer is sold as-is, with no warranties, and that the buyer has inspected and accepted it.

Step 6: Sign and date. Both parties sign and date. Add a notary or witness block if your state requires it or the value justifies it.

Step 7: Make copies. Give each party a signed original or copy, and keep yours somewhere permanent, especially in a no-title state where this document is your ownership record.

Step 8: Handle title and registration separately. If your state titles the trailer, sign the title over to the buyer. Either way, the buyer registers the trailer and gets a plate within their state's deadline. The bill of sale supports that step but does not replace it.

Common mistakes to avoid

Leaving out the VIN, or copying it wrong. On a manufactured trailer the VIN is the key identifier. A missing or mistyped VIN can stop the buyer from registering and undermine the whole sale.

Skipping the GVWR and dimensions. Weight rating sets the registration class and the fee in most states, and on a homemade trailer the dimensions are how an inspector identifies it. Leaving them off invites trouble.

Treating a homemade trailer like a titled one. Buyers often expect a smooth transfer and get blindsided by the inspection and VIN-assignment process. Flag a homemade trailer clearly and describe it in detail.

Using a vague price or "agreed value." Always state an exact dollar amount in numbers and words. Tax agencies use this figure to calculate sales or use tax, and ambiguity invites a second look.

Forgetting the as-is clause. Without it, the seller can be exposed to implied-warranty claims over worn bearings or a soft floor. One line of text is the seller's biggest protection.

Signing for someone else without authority. If you are selling a relative's trailer, make sure you actually have the legal authority to do it. Our guide on how to sign documents as a power of attorney explains how to do this correctly.

After the sale: what each party should do

Once the bill of sale is signed, a few things still need to happen.

The seller should: keep a copy of the signed bill of sale and the title assignment, if any, remove or transfer the old plate where state rules require it, and notify the DMV that the trailer was sold so liability does not linger.

The buyer should: keep the bill of sale and any signed title, register the trailer and get a plate within the state deadline, and, for a homemade trailer, schedule the inspection and VIN assignment promptly. A trailer is essentially a piece of towable equipment, and the same paperwork discipline applies as when you buy any other gear, an equipment bill of sale follows the same logic for machines that do not roll on a hitch.

Related guides

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A trailer bill of sale is simple in theory, but leaving out the VIN, the GVWR, or the as-is clause can cost you when a dispute arises, and in a no-title state, it is your ownership record. Contractable generates a complete, customized trailer bill of sale in seconds, with the right description fields, as-is language, and payment terms for your sale. No lawyers or legal templates to wrestle with.